26 October 2009
Marketing Campaign Ripoff from Tymoshenko Presidential Campaign
23 August 2009
"Bezslavni Vyrodky" (Inglourious Basterds) Opens in Kyiv
Watching the new Quentin Tarantino film with Ukrainian dubbing added a whole new level of humor to the film. The dubbing job was highly professional...the word choices were, um, educational. The Ukrainians in the packed theater thoroughly enjoyed the film. The audience actually applauded loudly when the movie ended. Another first for me.
Kyiv Speaker's Corner
Kyiv's version of London's speaker's corner was buzzing with energy yesterday. I wasn't really able to follow the debate unfortunately. Too many "speakers" yelling at each other simultaneously, without much concern as to who is listening, if anyone.
Rock Versions of Old Ukrainian Folk Songs: UkrainSka
UkrainSKA are the folk songs in MAD HEADS XL style, the sound based on modern ska punk with no definite limitations. The band is long known for it’s versions of such songs as “Smereka”, “Dva dubky”, “Oi na gori cygany stoyaly” and that is basically the mood of the new project. More generally, it is folk songs in the form of modern rock music. The second task for the project is to make rock music more popular in Ukraine. The third one is to help the Ukrainian melody getting into the world culture, where it should occupy the decent place it truly deserves. (read more)
20 August 2009
What's Happening on Independence Day Weekend in Kyiv
- Wakeboarding Tournament, Park Druzhby Narodu, 21-23.Aug, 10am
- Flower Show, Pechersk Landscape Park, 22.Aug-1.Sep
- Blacksmith Day, Pyrohova Museum of Architecture (with demonstrations and visitors can use the black smithing tools), 22-23.Aug
- National Flag Raising Ceremony, Maidan, 23.Aug (No time given?)
- Prayer for Ukraine and Ukrainians, St. Sophia, 24.Aug (also no time designated)
- Military Parade, Khreschatyk, 24.Aug, 10am
- Varenyky Speed Eating contest, Maidan, 16:00, 24.Aug (win a vacation for 2 to Egypt)
- Art Exhibition, Andryvsky Uzviz, 24.Aug
- Concert, Maidan, 19:00
- Fireworks "Salut", Maidan 22:00
05 May 2009
ODE TO KYIV
26 April 2009
Electric Dream - Docker's ABC
Kyiv's bar live music scene has really advanced in the last few years. Tonight, a Sunday no less, a hardworking, talented band from Dnipropetrovsk brought the house down at Dockers ABC on Passage. I had one of those rare feelings where I understood that this trio is far to powerful to be performing in a bar. Their all original material was a hard-edged blues infused rock. Technically tight yet very emotional, including tremendous vocals from the bass player, Electric Dream delivered an incredible set. I expect to see them on a stage somewhere soon.
20 April 2009
Ukrainian Barney?
19 April 2009
Twitter Savvy Ukrainian Politicians: Continued
and Arseniy Yatsenyuk:
Mr. Yatsenyuk has over a thousand followers and does link to his informative "Front of Change (Zmin)" website. He is also following over a thousand twitters.
How Twitter Savvy are Ukraine's Politicians?
Arseniy Yatseniuk
Guessing that the iPhone toting Arseniy Yatseniuk would be the leader in the tech-savvy category I searched for him using "Find People" on Twitter. Sure enough his page came up. He has 5 followers, and is following 3. Of the three he is following, two are CCN Headlines, and the World Economic Forum in Davos. The third is an Olenka2009. There are no updates. There is no link to a personal website which makes me question the authenticity off this page. I tried from the other direction by searching for website first in hopes of seeing a Twitter reference. I couldn't even find a personal website. Where is Mr. Yatseniuk's internet team?
President Yushchenko
Found his Twitter page where he shows 40 followers, following 0, and 1 update. Yawn.
Viktor Yanukovych
With very low expectations I searched and found Mr. Yanukovych's Twitter page. I was mildly surprised to see some work had been done on his profile. There is a link to his English language website, The Leader's Diary - V.Yanukovych's Personal Information Server. The Twitter page is adorned with the Party of Regions logo, as tiled wallpaper. Looks like Mr. Yanukovych is ready to go, but so far 7 followers, following 0, and 0 updates.

Prime Minister Yulia Tymoshenko
The PM comes away with the most developed Twitter presence of the bunch. Following 146 and being followed by 67. 99 updates. The "tinyurl" links go to her website. Quite the wallpaper. What's with the roses? Regardless of my personal political opinions of our PM, kudos to her new media team. As a sidenote I noticed that she is the only politician following the new Ukrainian political networking site Politiko.

For purposes of comparison glance at Obama's Twitter site. He is being followed by 883,390, and is following 752,928. There is a link to his website and he has updated 265 times. In fact, a few days after clicking "Follow" (and thus becoming...gasp...so to speak... "an Obama Follower") I received an email: "Barack Obama is now following you on Twitter". Obama, via his minions, was kind of enough to reciprocate. Hopefully our Ukrainian politicians will start following some of the opinions of their constituencies. Opinions issued 140 characters at a time.
Strange Vietnam Convergence
07 March 2009
Touring Ukraine's Economy - Day 4 Odesa

09:30 Exiting Dnipropetrovsk. The navigation, now my companion, is silent. Fog and white frost covered steppes on the road to Kryvij Rih. -4 DegC.
11:10 The sign reads welcome to Sofiivka. I’m willing to put money on a bet that Sofiivka is the most popular village name in Ukraine. I feel like I’ve gone through a dozen of them.
12:00 My first time in Kryvih Rih. The city immediately strikes me as neat and well kept. From the roads to the apartment buildings to the orderly landscaping by individual cottages. A mayor who cares perhaps?
The "Anti-crisis Staff of the Party of Regions" has a billboard campaign throughout the city. If I understand correctly the board reads: "In place of unreliability - trust(or confidence?)"
12:10 Kryvih Rih economic indicators. Not one but two McDonald’s with full parking lots. Good coffee "to go". Many small shopping malls, also full parking lots. A shiny new Renault dealership
12:20 Leaving Kryvih Rih I am looking for the road to Mykolaiv. The navigation system is as uncertain as I am, staying silent and then announcing, with an almost discernable sigh: “re-calculating”. I end up on a huge cloverleaf intersection which looks relatively recently built. Unfortunately there is not a single sign before any of the ramps indicating where the road may lead. The navigation seems unfamiliar with the new intersection and is staying quiet. I take the first ramp and wonder how it’s possible to spend millions of dollars on building this interchange and then not have the money to throw up a few signs?
13:42 The road from Kryvih Rih to Mykolaiv is ridiculously bad. The worst yet. Huge potholes all over the road and large missing swaths of road on the sides, the ancient fields well on their way to reclaiming the road. There does appear to be some concern for the cleanliness of the shoulder of the road, a sign reads "Thank you for the clean shoulders":
13:55 Novyj Buh. A village with a sign at the entrance that reads “Caution Intense Movement of Pedestrians”. There is no way to drive quickly even if I wanted to with all the massive potholes and undulations in the road. As I bounce through the center of town I see a large WWII hero statue and a little further down a silvery metallic statue of Taras Shevchenko.
14:00 I’m “jonesing” for a large Americano coffee from a McD’s. Using my phone I find one in Mykolaiv. I try to put it into the navigation but apparently it does not have a detailed map of Mykolaiv. There is a cool statue by the McD's in Mykolaiv. In memory of ship builders, sailors, navigators, and all those involved things nautical.
14:15 A green old truck with some kind of missile launching apparatus appears out of the fog. The plaque says it was used in the war in 1944.
Odesa. Our dealer in Odesa and his wife invite me to dinner along with another couple. They are warm and friendly “Odesyty”. The conversation begins as a spirited sharing of funny travel experiences. They are extremely well traveled.
The crisis is touched upon as a topic of conversation and a brief debate as to whether Ukraine will default or not ensues. One of the men, a clothing, watch, and shoe importer says sales are 20% off prior year. He did not seem too concerned with the downturn in the short term. The general theme of the conversation about the economy was a feeling of frustration that the leadership of the country was so incompetent. They raise the rhetorical question: why do we have to be such a chaotic country where there is absolutely no order, no rule of law, no stability?
Another couple joins the group and suddenly two of the men are discussing western Ukraine and their travel experiences there, almost as if it was a different country. They recount acts of great hospitality and friendliness. Then the conversation takes a political turn and the two begin debating the history of western Ukraine. One from the side of Soviet taught history, and the other from the western taught history (the way I learned it). By this time we have moved one floor down into a “whisky club” and were sampling whiskies. They are amazed that an American can speak Ukrainian but not Russian. One of the men starts proudly speaking broken Ukrainian much to the teasing banter of the rest of the group. I sit mostly quiet while the debate about the history of Halichyna and western Ukraine continues and try to grasp the point of view of Soviet history out of curiousity. When directly asked, I recount the history the way I learned it from my parents and from the Subtelny book.
Then back to the humorous travel stories such as this one: somewhere while driving on historic route 66 one of the Odesa couples had stumbled across a space museum. In the museum was an exhibit about Soyuz-Apollo mission (known as Apollo-Soyuz to us). In the exhibit were two bottles of alcohol. Apparently when the two ships docked in orbit, the Soviet Cosmonauts gave the Americans a bottle of Vodka, and the Americans gave the Cosmonauts a bottle of whisky. Today, in the exhibit the Vodka bottle is full, and the whisky bottle is almost completely empty. Signed by all the Cosmonauts, but empty.
09:30 Sunday. A brilliant sun is out in the Odesa morning. We walk by the beach in the Arkadia part of town. Then we stroll past all the colorful, thematic bars now closed and boarded up for the winter. The Black Sea glistens in the sun. Sea gulls fly in groups around the pier. A line of cargo ships queues on the horizon.
The road to Kyiv is one of the best roads in Ukraine. The ride is smooth and peaceful. The Ukrainian steppe sprawling on either side of the road covered in snow. The sun pokes through the clouds but only in swathes, like huge floodlights from the heavens illuminating parts of fields, groves of birch trees, and rows of little cottages organized along meandering creeks, clinging to the gentle undulations of the black earth.
Despite the inept politicians, lack of leadership, and rampant corruption, I remain in awe of this country and its people.
Touring Ukraine's Economy - Day 3 Dnipropetrovsk
08:50 Road to Dnipropetrovsk. This will be the shortest leg of my trip. The roads are in decent shape. Several road crews repair the many post-winter pot holes. Does it make sense to fill potholes in sub-zero temperatures?
In Dnipropetrovsk the Party of Regions has a solution to the economic crisis. If you get laid off sue your employer. Oleh Zareva's Center for Social Programs will help you to "Defend Your Right to Work!" reads the billboard.
Vladimir Ilich Lenin, circled by the capitalist advertising of UkrSibBank, NOKIA, and others looks over a makeshift parking lot in the center of Dnipropetrovsk. I keep my eyes open for social unrest and don't see any, at least not today. Today shoppers are still parking in front of Lenin and scrambling into the TSUM (Tsentralnyj Univermah) Department Store.
Beyond Lenin's parking lot is a shopping mall under construction. Crews were working and the cranes were moving.
There are a few "For Rent" signs on recently closed retail businesses on Dnipro's main street. The retailers that are still open have plastered their windows with large sale and discount signs. A sign of the times: "Final Sale"
16:30 Meeting with our Dnipropetrovsk Dealer. The conversation revolves around the lack of credit availability at banks and how it's stifling his business and those of his friends. Demand for luxury products has evaporated he says. He is heavily invested in luxury vehicle brands and owns multiple dealerships. Fortunately, those facilities were not built with borrowed funds, nor were they leveraged for other investments. This supports the going theory that Ukraine has not had a chance to fully develop into a highly leveraged society, as opposed to other Eastern European nations like Poland, Bulgaria, and Hungary. Our meeting ends punctually. He is a big Deep Purple fan and Ritchie Blackmore's band "Rainbow" are performing tonight. A sold out show in Dnipropetrovsk at UAH 400 per ticket.
18:50 On the way back to the hotel, I stop for a look around his latest dealership built for a luxury Japanese make. The service manager gives me a detailed tour of the workshop and is very kind to answer all my questions. I am most intrigued by the Japanese 5S Methodology poster on the wall. The text is in Ukrainian short of the five Japanese words.
"It's part of our Kaizen" explains Vadym handing me a book about Kaizen in Russian translation. "It's truly a great thing. We work on it together".

The cleaning lady, rests on her mop, and having overhead our conversation asks if I'm from Western Ukraine. She herself is originally from Rivne. Has she felt the impact of the financial crisis? So far so good she says. She is still employed and so are her loved ones.
I make my way back to the hotel pondering the fact that I apparently know one of the world's few, or possibly only, non-leveraged car dealer. Kaizen.
04 March 2009
Touring Ukraine’s Economy – Day 2 Donetsk
09:00 I take photos of our dealer’s construction site. Another silent half-completed structure except for a few workers welding something probably for my benefit.
09:42 DAI. I am quasi-lost seeking the exit from Kharkiv in the direction of Donetsk. The navigation keeps saying “Re-calculating, Re-calculating”, looked left, nothing, made a right, notice the red light after making the turn…only to find myself at one of those little two story DAI posts with a smiling DAI guy waving his stick at me. I play the foreigner card and he, remarkably, lets me off with a warning.
10:30 Pass the huge Philip Morris Factory. Middle of nowhere. Try to take a picture of it, but it’s really flat and long. Needs a different kind of camera.
11:11 DAI pulls me over. Second time. A road block type situation in which they are pulling over all cars that have out of town plates. He explains that there was a crime involving guns and asked if there are guns in the car. No. Ok. Company car? Yes. You have all the docs. Yes I do. Ok have a safe trip. Ok thank you.
12:20 Donetsk Oblast, AVIAS gas station.
After using the clean bathroom, I ask Sasha the pump attendant:
“Have you felt the impact of the global economic crisis?”Clean bathroom:
“What do you mean?”
“Have you seen a drop in cars and trucks traveling on this highway?”
“No, not really,” Sasha smiles and then becomes serious, “people are who own cars aren’t going to stop using them are they? Just let their cars sit there?”

13:00 Snow covered fields. The sun makes an appearance. Long orderly rows of Topoli (English name?) line the road. I am struck, yet again, by the natural beauty of Ukraine and a recurring urge to don a pair of cross-country skis and go in a straight line for miles.
13:30 Driving through Kramatorsk, Donetsk Oblast, population I’m guessing around 200k, I’m fascinated by the massive, sprawling New-Kramatorsk Machine building Plant (Novo Kramatorskiy Mashynobydivelniy Zavod - NKMZ). After passing dozens of rotting, defunct Soviet era plants it’s great to see one that is still operational. The plant stretches for miles. Smoke coming out of various chimneys indicating life. The administrative building has been revamped with new windows and, in an apparent attempt at branding, there is are many new “NKMZ” signs consisting of huge navy-blue bloc letters.
13:35 At the edge of Kramatorsk, I stop at the “Art Nirvana Café” for a cup of coffee. It’s an empty, formal restaurant with table cloths and all manner of fancy napkin folding in the glasses on the tables. Intimidated by the pristine table tops I sit on one of four bars stools by the small bar in the back. Anton appears happy to have a task to do as the Saeco coffee maker loudly grinds the exact portion of coffee beans required.
“Have you felt the impact of the global economic crisis?” I ask.I sip the 14 Hryvnia coffee and ponder its value. Last August $2.80, last month $2.00, and now judging from the rates I saw at an Obmin leaving Kharkiv, less than than $1.40.
“Not really, business at the restaurant is the same,” replies Anton.
“What about the plant? How many people work there anyway?”
“About 45,000. I haven’t heard of any layoffs. There are several other plants in Kramatorsk as well.”
“So I imagine you are a Yanukovych, Party of Regions fan?” I ask. The word I use for fan is “bolivalnyk” stolen from soccer terminology, a hopeful linguistic stretch.I recall the allegations during the O.R. that factory workers were instructed to vote a certain way – or the factory may shut down.
“Sure am. Kramatorsk voted 99% for Yanukovych,” says Anton proudly.
“Who knows, maybe he’ll become president while Yushchenko and Timoshenko fight each other,” I speculate.
“That would be great.”
15:10 Donetsk. Dima (not his real name) our dealer in Donetsk is a smart, young guy. Bright and talkative. His father, a coal-miner (Shakhtar) died of a heart attack leaving Dima to provide for his mother and his little brother. He’s a new breed of Ukrainian businessman of the non-smoking, non-drinking variety:
“How could I drink when my father died of a heart attack and I had a nine year old brother and mother to look out for? Between work, night school, and sports I had no time to drink. Now that I have a little time for social life, it’s like I don’t have the skills to ‘party’ or drink with my friends. The whole thing seems odd to me. Like people willingly letting go of their minds.”Dima rambles about “the customer experience”, about how he trains his team to work on first impressions, to be helpful and courteous to customers, to listen to their needs, and so on. I've lived in Ukraine too long to automatically get enthused by his words. Is he rattling off what he thinks I want to hear, or is he genuinely a standout?
“Watch this” he says as he maneuvers into the right lane and veers off in front of a decrepit Soviet era building with a huge Mercedes-Benz sign on it. Above the sign, the pukey yellow bricks are crumbling, in front of the “dealership” are five new Mercedes covered in two day old snow. We exit the car and walk to the door of the showroom.
“This is the official Mercedes dealer in Donetsk” he says.
A sign hangs on the inside of the glass door: closed (zachyneno). I look at my watch. 6:03 PM. A sticker on the door reads 9-6. Dima tries the door since there are still sales people inside and the lights are on. It opens and we walk in.
“We’re closed!” yells a sour faced sales consultant rising from behind his computer.Back in the car Dima starts fumes about the encounter.
“I have a budget for new car and I was thinking…” I say.
“We’re closed!” he cuts me off, “come back when we’re open!”
“Can I leave you my contact information? Do you have a card?” I add.
“Just come back when we’re open.”
“You see how primitive it still is here? God forbid if that should happen at any of my dealerships. I’ve fired people for not answering the phone by the third ring,” he reflects for a minute while nonchalantly swerving around a big blue Kamaz, “I just don’t get why people don’t see that the answer is simply to work hard. The guy doesn’t want to work, but he’ll be the first one protesting on Lenin Square saying wages are not fair.”
Not a protestor to be seen on snowy Lenin Square, Donetsk:
Mario restaurant sits on top of the latest office tower built by Rinat Akhmentov, local billionaire. The restaurant is not empty. At one table four grim, grumbling, overweight men sporting Yanukovych haircuts huddle around a clear glass decanter of vodka and tall glasses of tomato juice. At another, a well-dressed family sits politely, with an air of formality, often taking turns standing and making a toast no doubt acknowledging some date or achievement. Nearest to us is a grey haired American man in jeans and a sweatshirt sitting with a primped young lady in heels and an evening gown and another young lady translating. In all, there is way too much cologne and perfume in use for the size of the room.
Dima orders and a salad, veal medallions, and a “fresh”. When the waiter turns to me, Dima chuckles to himself.
“You didn’t ask me what kind of fresh!” Dima says to the waiter.The waiter looks puzzled at first and then begins a long rationalization. Dima looks at me while the waiter is spinning the situation, and then back at the waiter.
“It’s not complicated, I ordered fresh it would be logical to ask what kind. That’s all,” he says calmly.
I ask about the mines Dima’s father worked in before his heart attack. There were days, explained Dima, that his father would spend his entire shift on his knees struggling with the hydraulic jackhammer because the tunnel was only 1.5 meters high. If not on his knees, it was common to be standing knee deep in water for the whole shift. Rats were like best friends. Why would someone become a coal miner? Because they are proud of the mining tradition and enticed by early retirement after 20 years service.
I bring up politics and Dima doesn’t really want to go there. He says he’s interested in it but there is no one who has an idea for Ukraine that he can get behind. He is clearly impressed with Rinat Akhmetov and frequently references Akhmetov’s contributions to Donetsk. He is proud that Donetsk will soon open the best stadium in Ukraine, the best airport, etc. Driving me around Rinat’s compound, earlier, Dima explained, with great detail, the construction of the five meter walls encircling the estate. Thickness, steel reinforcement, and so on. Half his compound is protected state natural park (zapovidnyk) he says, but no one can touch Rinat.
Mr. Akhmetov's stadium project:
I leave Donetsk with many questions unanswered. The son of a coal-miner, born and raised in Donetsk understands what it means to be “customer focused” better than most Americans and Europeans I know. How is that? And what’s with the city itself? Is it a real, vibrant and energetic economy at work or a Rinat Akhmetov theme park? A pet project of popping up shopping malls, hotels, a stadium, airport etc…Is it a model of how Ukraine can be built or the path to a grumbling dictatorship in a cloud of cologne?
02 March 2009
Touring Ukraine’s Economy – Day 1 Kharkiv
My borrowed navigation system (thanks ROK), insists on calling Kharkiv Charcow. The female voice calmly instructs me: “Continue straight 466 km and turn right, in Char Cow”.
There are noticeably less trucks on the road than I remember from prior road trips. Less consumption, less manufacturing, less shipping, less cargo on the roads of Ukraine. Exiting the city of Borispil, I find myself surrounded by empty billboards on both sides of the road. This goes on for a couple of kilometers. Sporadically, amid the looming grey boards are new Party of Regions billboards: “Enough noise (halas?)…let’s get to work” and other such doosies along with one aged independence day greeting from President Yushchenko, the kind with his signature scrawled across it.
Dozens of small towns (selos) appear and disappear. Yellow gas lines thread their way across the otherwise picturesque snow covered cottages. A bundled up babushka sits on a stool by the side of the road in front of a bucket of potatoes and bucket of carrots. Same as during boom times. These villages have many problems, sub-prime loans are not among them.
Poltava. I become melancholy on the approach to Poltava. I wonder what it was like in these fields in the Summer of 1709. The masses of Swedish and Russian infantry, cavalry, and artillery advancing in long lines to gruesome deaths. Nine thousand soldiers lost their lives in these fields now traversed by the Kyiv-Kharkiv road. The Swedish dead were buried where they fell, the Russians buried their dead in a mohyla – which, oddly, today bears the name “Swedish Mohyla”. I imagine the Zaporizhian Cossack contingent joining ranks with the Swedes with the dream of ridding their land of the Russian yoke only to find themselves up against Cossacks of other orders fighting for the other side. I contemplate this as I walk into Poltava McDonald’s for a coffee. 300 years of progress and we’ve made it from muskets to McNuggets.
Scenes from Poltava McDonald's:
The recently built McDonald’s was done in that new McD’s style like the one I saw in Berlin. Poltava has the coolest McDonald’s I’ve ever seen. Try it. Regarding the economy? The parking lot was full and there were lines at the cash register.
In Kharkiv there is no construction work being done on any of the construction sites I pass. Cranes and back hoes are motionless. Car dealerships are open, but visitor parking lots are empty and there are no people in the showrooms. Shopping mall lots are full.
I meet our dealer and embark on an eight hour marathon of second-hand smoke inhalation and increasingly belligerent Russian language and spirited laughter. The restaurant is empty except for us. I witness him work his two phones continuously, at times simultaneously, with one on each ear, cigarette dangling from his mouth working deals, negotiating.
“Are you nuts? For that kind of money I can buy half of Kharkiv right now. Call me when you are ready to talk.”Laughter. The general topic of conversation is how everyone has stopped spending money and is waiting for something to change. There is no credit money. Banks are failing. Then on to a conversation about the Tax inspectors, corrupt local politicians and so on. I felt like I had traveled back in time to 1995 Ukraine.
The night ends outside the hotel. He leaps out of the car to say goodnight, lights another Marlboro. I look up and see a clear, star filled winter sky. I am happy to be breathing fresh air. After a pause, he becomes melancholy and issues a final lament about the Hryvnia:
“If only they devalued it once. Let it devalue as much as it has to, but do it once. Then at least we can start from there. These sporadic devaluations keep us in a continuous feeling of anarchy. What will we do Petro? What will we do?”Then he erupts into laughter, hugs me violently, and zooms off into the distance in his 140k EUR imported car.
22 February 2009
The Bizarre Appearance of the Sun in Kyiv
09 February 2009
Released Sailors Asked by Company to Pay for Phone Calls?
07 February 2009
Laughter at Customs
The customs guys in Odesa are laughing. They were paid handsomely for looking the other way during the importing of these cars, Mercedes, Porsches, etc...and now they are getting paid again for the export of the same cars as grey dealers are shipping out their overstock.
19 January 2009
Windows Virus Coded in Ukraine?
Mikko Hypponen, chief research officer at anti-virus firm F-Secure, says while the purpose of the worm is unclear, its unique "phone home" design, linking back to its point of origin, means it can receive further orders to wreak havoc.
He said his company had reverse-engineered its program, which they suspected of originating in Ukraine, and is using the call-back mechanism to monitor an exponential infection rate, despite Microsoft's issuing of a patch to fix the bug.
30 October 2008
"Buy a Driver's License"
КУПИ ПРАВА!
Помощь в получении ВОДИТЕЛЬСКОГО УДОСТОВЕРЕНИЯ
8 9О6 794 nn nn, 8 9O6 794 nn nn Владимир
And DAI wonders why there are so many accidents on the road.
27 October 2008
Pawn to King 4: The Prosecutor’s Opening
He is young, though well schooled in the bureaucratic manner of the old pros twice, or even three times his age. The opening is standard. It involves setting up the immensity of the crude, blatant, and negligent violation that Ministry X’s diligent Inspectorate has documented in their official “Protocols of Inspection”.
“Are you familiar with the contents of Article 63 of the Constitution of Ukraine?” he asks.
“Yes” I reply. I was briefed earlier.
“And do you consciously waive those rights? If so, sign here.”
Ok, even though I am fully aware that I am playing my role in a corruption dance there is still a little room in my psyche for fear to creep in. After all, he does have the power to incarcerate me on whatever charges he wishes to trump up. Seeing the inside of a Ukrainian prison, even for an hour, is not on my “to do before I die” list. I sign the document.
“Well,” he starts, “as a foreigner our laws may seem a little primitive to you. I fully agree. In fact it pains me that the legislation is so confusing with so many contradictory instructions and clarifications. I really feel for people like you who run businesses but there is little I can do. I have to play by the rules right? I have to enforce the law as it is.”
“Of course,” I reply, “the laws are there to protect Ukraine and its citizens. We, at the company bend over backwards to comply with every regulation no matter how arcane and seemingly illogical. We learned early on that to do otherwise would simply open us up to a continuous revolving door of inspectors and fines.” then dropping the volume of my voice I add “official and otherwise”.
“I’m glad you agree”, he nods ignoring the last phrase, “sometimes I get the impression that you Americans do things in Ukraine they would never think of doing in America for fear of the strict fines there.” He muses for moment. “I was in Chicago once you know.”
“Nice city.” My mind conjures images of Ministry X bureaucrats and their counterparts from other countries at a lakeside convention hall checking out each other’s new Armani suits. This is going well I think to myself naively. Maybe it was ok to say no to paying that bribe last week?
“Now about the facts of the matter at hand. Our Inspectorate has pictures of your violation. If you add up the damages, it’s over twenty thousand Hryvnia. That means, that we are not discussing the simple matter of an administrative fine. No indeed, you as General Director of the company, are criminally liable. Are you aware of this?” he asks arching his eyebrows and looking over the top of his glasses.
“Are you opening a criminal case against my client?” pipes up my lawyer, suddenly awake and alert.
When speaking with a Ukrainian government official I’d rather not even be part of a conversation with word “criminal” in it.
“Well, not at this point. I need to ask some questions.” answers the Prosecutor.
I can sense the smugness in his demeanor. He is satisfied with the way the opening is playing out. From the numerous piles of legal paperwork he picks up one in particular and starts flipping through the pages.
“It’s a shame,” sighs the Prosecutor “now that the Protocols of Inspection have been filed with my office I have to investigate”. The implication being that I had my chance to make a deal at the Inspectorate level at a reasonable rate, and that now it’s going to cost me.
“Now. Let’s get started. Passport please.”
Finding the Prosecutor's Office
Finally, among a collection of weather-beaten, plastic signs next to a non-descript door we find a small “Office of the Prosecutor of Ministry X” sign. With a minute to go we enter the jumble of half-renovated office space and begin the game of trying to find the office we need. We approach a secretary with our plight and after the requisite “you are nobody to me” delay she finally turns away from the television to look at us. Her demeanor can only be described as the personification of the phrase “You’ve obviously mistaken me for someone that gives a crap”. With a scowl she motions toward a hallway that we quickly shuffle down while reading the signs on the doors. Deputy This and Deputy That all the way down the hall. The last door has the last name we are looking for on it. I am about to knock on the door when the lawyer stops me.
“Remember, the prosecutor has the right to ask for your attorney not to be present. In that case you should refuse to answer on the grounds that you might incriminate yourself. Say something about being a foreigner and not fully understanding the language. Then mention Article 63 of the constitution.”
“Article 63? Ok.”
19 October 2008
Kyiv and Prague
Traffic Under Control
With no apparent large roadways, somehow the traffic, at least in the center of Prague where we stayed, is managed and under control. A matter of organizing flow, parking, and law enforcement I am guessing. The tour guide, during the boat trip, told us that up to the 18th century there was only one bridge across the Vltava river (the famous Charles bridge). Now the river is crossed by 17 bridges.
Monuments to Victims of Communist Oppression
Czech people commemorate those that were killed (among them students) opposing the communist occupation. In Ukraine, it seems that history is more of a debate subject than something that is part of the country's identity.
Tourism
The streets are filled with tourists, even in these cool fall days. I can't imagine Prague in the summer when the tourism most likely detracts from what the city has to offer. Kyiv has so much to offer and so little real tourist infrastructure. The impact of a healthy tourist industry, and all the required services, would be huge in Kyiv.
14 October 2008
High-times at the Security Council
13 October 2008
The Champ is Back! Klitschko vs. Peter, Berlin 11.10.2008
The national anthems of both countries (Ukraine and Nigeria) where played with flags displayed in the ring.
Entering the ring to the tune of AC/DC's "Hell's Bells", complete with huge bell suspended from the arena ceiling and ringing eerily, Vitaliy looked in shape and focused. Vladimir his brother, entered the ring with this training team and helped in the corner. Himself a current heavyweight champion, Vladimir was the only boxer to beat Samuel Peter in the Nigerian's long string of title bout victories.
Many Vitaliy fans were nervous. Can a fighter really come back after four years out of the ring? A video on the diamond vision was played right before the fight with best wishes said personally to Vitaliy. George Foreman, Lennox Lewis, and others (including even Mike Tyson) have Vitaliy their encouraging words.
The fight itself consisted basically of eight rounds of Vitaliy pounding on the "Nigerian Nightmare". At first I was expecting Peter to surprise us with a punch to Vitaliy's head, but he was unable to get in. Peter's small stature was no match for Vitaliy's long arms. The match ended by Peter resigning while in the corner after the eighth round. Victory Vitaliy.
We lingered after the fight and watched as Vitaliy (and Vladimir) and Vitaliy's wife all gave interviews for the media. Someone on Vitaliy's team stretched out a Ukrainian Flag behind Vitaliy as a backdrop. One of the interviews was for the audience and was broadcast in the Arena. From what I could gather, it was in German, the interviewer asked if Vitaliy was going to go back into politics. The question actually caught him off guard and he stuttered and struggled to come up with a non-commital reply while grinning widely.
Go Vitaliy!
10 October 2008
Swan Song for the Orange Revolution
As much as I too would have loved to see the days on Maidan followed up with mass indictments of corrupt government bureaucrats, the OR will always hold a special place in my heart due to the simple fact that Ukrainians rose up together, stood their ground , and demanded their voice be heard. It was an incredible, festive, peaceful time of working together as a people.
Nowhere have I seen this captured better on film than in the "Orange Chronicles" by Damyan Kolodiy. (cf. Orange Chronicles Website)
Damyan has been faithfully conducting viewings and participating in film festivals with his documentary. Most recently he has shown his film in London, and at the EU in Brussels. See his interview with BBC here: BBC Interview
08 October 2008
Ukrainian Hospitality
24 August 2008
Ukraine's 17th Anniversary of Independence
Even though I am in Lviv, the first time for independence day, I found myself watching the live coverage of the Independence Day parade in Kyiv on T.V. on this news channel called "24". This year, after a seven year hiatus, Ukraine brought back the military parade down Khreschatyk. Yuriy Yekhanurov, Minister of Defense, standing in the back seat of his Zil convertible addressed each of the military units assembled in parade dress stretching from maidan to TSUM. He then returned to Maidan, dismounted the Zil and walked down a red carpet to the podium where President Yushchenko. They exchanged some unamplified words, presumably a quick report about the state of the military from the Minister of Defense to the President, followed by a hand shake. He then took a place next to the President and the parade started. Each branch marched by to the music of the military orchestra. The orchestra was playing a marching medley which oddly included the phantom of the opera theme. Tanks and other mechanized units followed the marching troops. After the armored vehicles helicopters, then jets, and finally an escorted bomber flew overhead to the cheers of the crowd. In his speech Yushchenko mentioned that Ukraine is on the path to "Euro-atlantic" integration, carefully avoiding the term "North-atlantic". Yulia was not shown in any of the coverage. I wonder where she is celebrating?
21 April 2008
Villa Gross

Villa Gross, another luxury goods store opened in Kyiv the other day. We are living in times that are forgiving of weak translations .
29 September 2007
"Dolls" Exhibit Opens!

Ola's new art exhibit opened successfully last Thursday, 27.09.07, at Suzirya on Jaroslavyj Val 14. The exhibit will remain at Suzirya until October 14th and is open for viewing throughout the day, including weekends. More details here.
Ola's description of the exhibit:
"Dolls, more specifically Ukrainian dolls, are not just representations of human beings but symbolic in various ways. For some, nostalgia for childhood and for others simply toys. They can be cute, awkward, still or alive, but never perfect just like us. Most amazingly they say so much with silence and their simplicity."
Ukraine Advances No. 7 Car Market in Europe
26 September 2007
Stagebuilders on Speed
25 September 2007
Putin's Dacha Neighborly Relations
20 September 2007
Morning Commute
Kyiv Post just published an relevant article: Surge in roadway accidents detected.
...fatalities grew by 22.9 percent from 4,425 deaths in 2006 to 5,596 in 2007 DAI head Alexei Kalinskiy said that accidents are up by 34.8 percent during the first eight months of this year to more than 163,000 compared to 120,000 recorded during the same period in 2006.
Tips for surviving your commute based on my observations: drive a big car with air bags, stay out of the left lane when there is an opposing traffic lane and no guard rail, and don't drive fast.
Political Creatives
Kyiv is fully pasted over with political propaganda. Three main types of outdoor advertising is in use. The standard billboard, the rectangular, hanging over the street "Trolley" adverts, and the sort of flags/banners that are affixed to telephone or light poles along the sides of the streets.
The parties in their wisdom and their counseling from professional PR people have taken some different approaches:
Of course we have the braid...
The glasses....
and more glasses...
then the arm...
heck, schemes PoR, Yanukovych's mugshot isn't exactly eye-candy, why not just put up our amazingly cool slogans:
and the commies take a whole wall....
17 September 2007
Morning Commute Observations
Many interesting customs, bordering on superstitions, pervade Ukrainian society (per my exposure to it). Don't shake hands across a door entrance way. Don't speak about a baby before it's born, etc. One thing that is NOT apparently taboo is showing dead bodies in the media: T.V., in press, and online.
It is very strange seeing dead crash victims during my commutes. I've seen at least a dozen during the last few years. The pedestrian that was crossing a highway, at night, dressed in black (and drunk?). The two teenagers thrown 10 meters from their moped. T-shirts, no helmets, and lots of blood. Corpses trapped in cars with dutiful men from raytivnycha sluzhba using massive hand tools, "jaws of life", to rip sheet metal and get access to them. There's this instant dissociation that occurs in my head. Like I'm on a movie set. It's not real. They're actors. But they are not actors. They are real dead people I pass on my commute.
Svoboda Slova
Apparently, there is also one on 5 Kanal, hosted in Ukrainian. So I no longer need to decipher Mr. Shuster's Russian (although it has become a lot easier for me lately). Friday night political T.V.
My Neighbor the Oligarch
We have some big houses in our neighborhood, but generally people keep to themselves, park their cars inside their two meter walls and mind their own business. The road we live on was peaceful until Rolls Royce Oligarch started visiting. The road is lined with houses on one side and a national park forest zapovidnyk on the other side. In the evenings people stroll on the road. When I turn the corner I typically see a pair of mothers each pushing a baby carriage with one hand and holding a plastic liter bottle of Chernihivske in the other. I see men walking dogs and old women, in their year-around snow boots, walking cows home from the pasture. If I'm returning from work late in the evening less people are walking and more are congregating in small groups at the intersections which have at least a single light post working. Teenagers laugh and play music on their mobile phones and old ladies with their hair covered in scarves gossip.
A few weeks back everything changed on our street. Actually, the street itself changed. In the span of five days the Rolls Royce Oligarch built a second road, 10 meters to the left of our current road and parallel to it. He cut out a piece of the Zapovidnyk and laid a road down in five days flat. I am sure all the permits for cutting into the National Park were secured legally and transparently. Not. Witnessing the daily progress led me to conclude that things can get built insanely quickly here in Kyiv. The mohorytch's (sp?) that he (or his people) organized almost nightly during the construction, right there outside, by his new road, must have been part of the permitting process. All this construction of course begs the question: why did he build this second road immediately parallel to the first road? My question was answered in the next few days when workers started building a wall from the existing front wall of the Oligarch's house, across the old road and turning a corner at the border with the new road. The Oligarch was unhappy with the size of his front yard and decided to expand it to encompass the area of the street that passes in front of his current fence. To accomplish this he needed the second road so that others could still get by. So now all the neighbors have two roads in front of their houses. One that stretches across the front of all the houses on the street (the new one), and the old one that also stretches in front of all the houses on the street EXCEPT one Rolls Royce Oligarch house.
11 September 2007
Yulia Addresses Western Investors
In a bizarre twist near the end of the meeting, an elderly man in the back of the room stood up and introduced himself as a Congressman from the USA. He then proceeded to quote the bible and lectured Yulia not to succumb to pride as a result of all the media attention. Again quoting the bible, he recommended that she not allow herself to be isolated from the counsel of many wise people in the citizenry that may seek access to her. Yulia, listening through the simultaneous translation, had a quizzical look on her face. Not sure where this was going. Finally, the self-proclaimed Congressman concluded with: "I was recently back in Washington for a visit and I was asked by various high-level officials about what it was like in Ukraine. They were particularly interested in what 'this Yulia Timoshenko' was like. I answered that Yulia is a visually a pretty woman, conducts herself always as a lady, thinks like a man(?), and works like a horse." what?
If I had to pick between BYuT, PoR, and Nasha Ukraina, (which i don't) it's a no brainer to pick BYut. Like my journalist friend commented at the meeting. "She takes a lot of criticism but she is definitely a strong force in Ukrainian politics. She will be around for a long, long time."
As an aside, in conclusion, she announced the launch of her english-language website www.ibyut.com today and encouraged the meeting participants to visit it.
An Eight Month Break
31 December 2006
Bandura Evening
"...the renaissance and development of the Kharkiv (Poltavska) bandura which has been almost forgotten in Ukraine. With the help of you kind koliada donation, it will be possible to complete a much needed bandura workshop in Lviv, Ukraine."The brief performance was organized by Oleh Mahlay, artistic director and conductor, of the Ukrainian Bandurist Chorus (www.bandura.org). From his introductory words I learned that the bandura is an instrument unique to Ukraine. I was also interested to learn about a little-known Kobzar (Bandurist player) convention in 1934 where Kobzars assembled from all over Ukraine only to be arrested and murdered. The facts are only starting to surface about this horrible tragedy. Wikipedia mentions the event:
"In recent years significant evidence has come to light that an ethnographic conference for bandurists, specifically for blind kobzars and lirnyks, was organised in Kharkiv in December of 1934 which was attended by approximately 300 blind musicians who were subsequently arrested and murdered."If anyone has any leads regarding this conference I'd like to explore it further. If anyone would like to help build the bandura workship in Lviv, please contact Oleh Mahlay at (www.bandura.org).
30 December 2006
Seventh-Kilometer Market (Odesa)
The booths vary in architectural approach from the garden variety steel frame covered with cheap canvas to actual mini, two-story buildings with floors, roofs complete with rain gutters, and lighting. On the hillside, the old ocean containers are opened at one end, a table is setup at the entrance, and voila one has a ready made store complete with inventory storage facilities. I am amazed at the display of ingenuity and resourcefulness evident in the way the booths are engineered. The way the inventory is stored in tiny spaces yet instantly accessible could be a lesson for any logistics warehouse manager. Standing in front of a booth with hundreds of buttons and other sewing accessories, for example, we ask for one of the belt buckles and the woman behind the table finds it instantly in her lattice of shelves, containers and labeling methods. Walking through the noisy, crowded aisles past the endless booths is almost akin to an athletic event. Periodically we make room for vendors pushing their home made carts aggressively down the aisle yelling out their ala carte menus. Hot tea, coffee, roasted peanuts, varenyky, hachipuri, lavash, lula kebab, and many other items are offered for a reasonable sum during your shopping process. The storekeepers fend off the December chill by smoking and sipping cognac from small white plastic cups. The glaring lack of garbage cans in the entire complex leads to collections of empty cognac bottles on the ground in small piles at the end of each aisle. The subsequently happy sales people often converge with each other along booth boundaries to pass the time as shoppers steadily stream past. The mechanics of the sales process, that have probably evolved very little in thousands of years, are in full swing. We pretend we don’t really need the item we're negotiating for and the store keeper pretends that he doesn’t really need to sell it. Then each side argues mightily to advance their position of disinterest while, in parallel, the price point is adjusted almost as an afterthought. I admired the inventiveness of a few of the store keepers who replaced the standard, plain awnings (typical for each booth) with colorfully patterned ones to help the shopper, and potential customer, remember the booth and possible return.
The cash based, unregulated free-market principles at play gave the market an certain energy attracting 150,000 customers daily. Products range from genuine (in my opinion), to third-shift products (unsanctioned product runs by official manufacturer subcontractors in the far east -- generally with cheaper raw materials), to out-right knock-offs. We passed through the sewing supplies section where fake Dolce and Gabana, Armani, Brioni, Louis Vuitton, Adidas, and Nike labels were on sale by the roll. When I took a picture the storekeeper smiled and asked why. We I replied that it was just out of curiosity he said "Takoho ne buvaye".
In the end, we found the perfect winter coat (factoring in our suspicions that it may be a knockoff), conducted the requisite negotiation, bought some parsley and dill from a passing vendor and left the Seventh Kilometer as satisfied customers.
23 December 2006
ICTV - Freedom of Speech Show
lutsenko standing at the podium being questioned by Kinakh, Symonenko, Chornovil, Lytvyn, Shufrych etc:
"...as soon as we returned deputy immunity we returned large scale corruption
the level of corruption now is unprecedented.
the divisions in Ukraine are false.
the current government is using false divisions to rob the country.
i don't want to lead a party, and i have been offered to run one..as everyone knows (alluding to Nasha Ukraina)
i am going to the people
i will circle Ukraine
we don't need colors.
we need blue and yellow.
ukraine is united by laws and by fairness. it is time to start talking about these things no?
i want to go to the people. it may work, it may not. but this corruption has to stop. i want Ukraine to be a country where one can walk around without security and not fear for their safety.
to Taras Chornovil: Tarase you and i did stand at the barricade against Kuchma, with your father as well. I remain there, against any kuchma, and you Taras went over to the same forces you fought earlier.
i can guarantee you that the majority of socialists think the way i do.
re: yulia timoshenko, you call her an opportunist, but she gave a budget that helped people. that doubled their salaries. yours only increases it 7%. 7% with tariffs up 350% percent. you have declared war on the people in each household.
you continue to say the country is divided
a divided country is easier to steal from.
you continue to say that you are defending us from NATO. you think NATO will be ok without us?
today all actions are in motion to make the Ministry of Internal Affairs an administrative resource again.
Kuchmism is back. It's all back. The same words, the same criminal schemes...but it won't work because Ukraine is not the same. Ukraine is different after the events of 2 years ago. If we Ukrainians have to go back to the streets we will go back to the streets. If we need drums we will have drums again.
20 December 2006
Thank You iTunes
29 November 2006
Parmesan Trattoria
"Orange Chronicles" (Screening in New York)
"Damian Kolodiy arrived in Kyiv on November 16th, 2004 and remained in Ukraine for all of the nation's historic Orange Revolution. From Kyiv to Donetsk to Odesa to Lviv, Kolodiy's documentary 'The Orange Chronicles' examines the watershed event through the poignant observations and personal interaction with Ukrainians on all sides of the debate."For more information email: OrangeDoc@gmail.com or visit www.orangechronicles.com
Holodomor: An Act of Genocide
Along the same lines, below is my reply to the email from Peter Dickinson, What's On magazine. I am indebted greatly to Marko R., Sev O., Dr. Jurij B. for quickly and concisely educating me about the Holodomor. In the end, I have come away with an abundant understanding of how little I know about the Holodomor and Ukrainian History in general. I look forward to expanding that knowledge. Several books about Holodomor, Stalin, etc. have been recommended to me. I plan to explore these and welcome any historical reading suggestions. Thank you.
Dear Mr. Dickinson,
Thank you for your reply and the clarification of your position.
Regarding your response, I believe that your characterization of the issue as a dichotomy “At core the issue is whether these people were murdered because they were Ukrainians, or because they were peasants” only confuses the issue. The people were targeted because they were Ukrainian and they were peasants.
Although the communist authorities decided that famine was not a practical tool for repression of Ukrainian nationalism in urban areas, repression in cities was well underway in the form of discrimination, repression of Ukrainian language schools, books, Ukrainian churches, mass imprisonment, executions, and deportation to Gulags (cf. released NKVD/KGB archives). Is being tortured to death in the city, for political reasons, somehow less horrifying than being starved to death in the countryside?
Historians can argue whether or not the primary aim of the Holodomor was political repression of Ukrainians, clearly there were other elements and objectives in play as in any war, genocide, or jihad. However, the fact that other elements were in play does not negate the genocidal component of a specific nationality being destroyed.
If applying your suggestion of a dichotomy to WWII would you argue that there was no genocide against Jews, Gypsies, Homosexuals, etc.. because WWII was motivated by other objectives (economic for one)? WWII happened for many reasons but these factors do not negate the fact that Jews and others were specifically targeted because of who they were.
Stalin’s targeting of nationalistic peasants in Ukraine more severely than nationalistic city-dwellers doesn’t lessen the fact that they were targeted for their nationalism. The fact that this nationalism coincided with a revolt against communists and collectivization doesn’t lessen the genocidal aspects of the man-made famine.
Israel Charny “Century of Genocide” has said that it is easier to prove doubt and win than it is to prove what really took place. Those that exclude the Ukrainian Holodomor from discussion limit the discourse on genocide and risk succumbing to a “selective perception of evil”. The VR in its historic decision yesterday decided not to be among the deniers, minimizers and obfuscators of genocide that assault survivors one more time. By legally declaring the famine a genocide they have truly taken a pro-Ukraine step. My congratulations.
Best regards,
Petro
27 November 2006
Answer from Editor of What's On Regarding Holodomor
Dear [Petro],Thank you for writing in and sharing your thoughts on last week's editorial. As you may have ascertained I try to use the weekly editorial spot to encourage discussion of issues which I consider to be of importance to today's Ukraine, and judging from the response I have received in the past few days that has certainly been the case this week. As a long-time writer on Ukrainian issues and qualified historian I am well aware of your arguments, much as I am familiar with the tactics employed by the Yanukovich administration when dealing with such core issues, but neither suggests that my position on the Holodomor is not the correct middle ground.I agree with your statement that Stalin clearly targeted Ukrainian villages, much as the regime targeted villages in Russia, the Caucasian region and elsewhere during the collectivization period. That is accepted historical fact. However, the debate here is essentially one of semantics. If, as you seem to believe, it was a racial genocide specifically targeted against ethnic Ukrainians, this begs the question of why ethnic Ukrainians in the cities did not suffer widespread starvation and why the famine was limited to the rural population. At core the issue is whether these people were murdered because they were Ukrainians, or because they were peasants. It is an admittedly ghastly question, but one which the nature of these genocide declarations forces us to address. The evidence overwhelmingly demonstrates that they died because they were part of a peasantry which the Bolsheviks had earmarked for destruction. In my opinion this also constitutes an act of genocide but given the body of evidence which has now come to light it is intellectually dishonest to argue that this genocide was racial in nature or targeted the Ukrainian people as a whole.I appreciate that this is an extremely emotive issue and would not seek to offend anyone's sensibilities or sense of grief and desire for historical justice, but do believe that the best way to achieve closure and build a better Ukraine is through an honest and open appraisal of the facts. Please feel free to share this response with your email circle. I would welcome further comment on the Holodomor issue and may even consider publishing a selection on the subject.Best regards,Peter Dickinson
"...this begs the question of why ethnic Ukrainians in the cities did not suffer widespread starvation and why the famine was limited to the rural population. At core the issue is whether these people were murdered because they were Ukrainians, or because they were peasants..."
Incredible Go-Karting in Brovary
26 November 2006
Letter to the Editor of What's On
Dear Mr. Dickinson,
I am a little surprised by your position regarding the Holodomor as stated in "From the Editor" in the 24-30 Nov 2006 edition of "What's On" magazine. Your suggestion that "Calling it genocide simply gives an ethnic slant to this man-made monstrosity that is both historically dubious and socially divisive." leaves a lot to be desired for anyone even remotely familiar with Ukrainian history and Holodomor.
There is ample evidence that Stalin specifically targeted Ukrainian villages during the famine. Multiple countries have passed resolutions identifying the famine as genocide. Regarding "divisiveness" if one surveys world history, it's clear that memory of suffering unites a nation. By the Verkhovna Rada naming the famine "genocide" they would be making a statement that Ukraine is a nation. Is that not unifying?
It is clear that Yanukovych and his cronies are playing their trumped up "socially divisive" card every time an issue of national identity arises. It is also clear that he is pushing his agenda in the media through increasingly overt means. I was hoping What's On would retain some objectivity in the face of Yanukovych's administration. I guess I was wrong. What's On is clearly pursuing an "ethnic slant" of its own, and it's not Ukrainian.
24 November 2006
Tania Update IV
Unfortunately, it looks like Tania, who is scheduled for another round of chemo-therapy in mid-December will not be going back to the hospital for treatment. The parents have decided to withdraw her from treatment.
We have received multiple emails from the doctors in the U.S. regarding Tania's withdrawal voicing their concern over this decision and urging us to convey to the family how important it is to continue. For example (from Dr. H.):
Dr.Z.C. let me know that she updated you today reconfirming results of our 11/14 consultation for Tetyana with oncologists at the Children's Hospital of Philadelphia (CHOP): Leukemia Team physician meeting, which consists of senior level leukemia experts from CHOP as well as members of the bone marrow transplant team, today also supported continued care as proposed by physicians in Kyiv. Please relay this to Tetyana's parents and family. We hope that this will help Tetyana's parents and family find comfort and confidence in the care that Tetyana is receiving in Kyiv and to allow this care to resume as soon as possible to minimize any potential consequences of abruptly and prematurely stopped chemotherapy.
We have discussed all of the above with the family and we are hoping for Tania's parents to change their minds before it is too late.
Tania Update III
The teleconference between the oncologist in Kyiv and CHOP experts on leukemia was excellent. Myself and Dr. H were also present. They directly discussed the methodology on which the diagnosis was made on Tania, including results of the chromosomal study. The doctors then discussed the treatment given so far and specific details about the doses of medications and reaction to the medications. The question of possible radiation to the brain and/or bone marrow transplantation were also discussed. Neither one of which is indicated for Tania's treatment.The experts at CHOP found that everything was done correctly and the current treatment is very appropriate. They agreed 100% and they would not have done it differently. The current treatment is also identical to what CHOP would be doing if Tania was here. The specialists here are planning to be in continuous contact with the oncologist in Kyiv for follow-up. They do not feel that there are other alternatives for managing Tania that they or anybody else can offer. Everything is being done correctly.The doctors here were very impressed with the Ukrainian physicians knowledge of oncology, as well as the command of her English language. If at any point, the situation changes and the doctors at CHOP feel they have something different or better to offer, they would recommend bringing Tania here.
13 November 2006
Tania Update II
21 October 2006
Tania Update
To recap where we are now, Mr. JH of Wilmington, Delaware has generously agreed to take on the project of getting Tania treated in the U.S. including sending a plane for her. At the same time, through other connections Dr. Z.C. of Children's Hospital of Philadelphia (CHOP), has confirmed that CHOP will treat Tania's Leukemia as part of their ongoing humanitarian aid projects for children. A video conference will be held Tuesday between CHOP physicians and Ukrainian physicians to determine the best course of treatment for Tania based on her current medical condition. At present she is not stable enough to travel due to various serious complications. During the last week she has shown some improvement, however, and has been able to eat a little on her own as well as walk a few steps.
05 October 2006
Tania
Our friends sister Tania is 14-years old and suffering from Leukemia (cancer) which is, in many cases as far as I understand, curable with the proper treatment. Ola has spent hours in the Leukemia ward of "Okhmadyt" children's hospital in Kyiv. It is clear that Tania will not get the required treatment in Ukraine. Ola and I are looking for a western hospital (USA? Germany?) to provide pro bono medical care for Tania. If anyone has any contacts or any information regarding physicians, hospitals, or charitable foundations that we can contact on Tania's behalf we would greatly appreciate it. Please leave a comment on this post.The following is a letter Ola wrote to the Children's Miracle Network:
Dear Children's Miracle Network!
I am writing to you because I am in search of a sponsor. I am an American living in Kyiv, Ukraine and have a very good friend here whose 14 year old sister was diagnosed with leukemia about 4 months ago. As you may know, Ukraine's medical system has a long way to go compared to the USA. I have been trying to figure out how to help them. I am an artist so I began painting my friend's sister (tania) along with many of the other children at the hospital in hopes of gathering some money together to help the family pay for her chemotherapy. They, by the way, have 10 children in this family, ALL of whom are working full-time to help pay for her treatment. It has become clear that they need much more than just a few hundred dollars to help save their sister.
Today again I spent a few hours at the hospital with my friend (Luba) and her sister. She had asked me to come to help gather some information together from the doctors because they are very "stingy" with their treatment plan. In brief, both doctors I spoke with seemed pretty knowledgeable, serious and comfortable with her treatment plan, which they say they do the same as in Germany.
THAT'S ON THE SURFACE OF COURSE. The facilities are still Ukrainian and the staff still gets paid pennies so very few people follow through with any real sense of responsibility. They ask family members to do a lot of the follow through and of course, the family is continuously going themselves to buy needles, medicine,or whatever is needed.
Their mother seems to be out of strength. First she trusted everyone and now she trusts noone so when they ask her things like to make sure Tania doesn't drink any liquids for x amount of time, the mother would probably give Tania water if she asked for it. It's all very delicate psychologically because if you get any of the staff angry, they will just kick you out of the hospital. you have to be completely knowledgeable yourself and also watch every step they take but then some of their egos get angry when you do. You have to bring staff members presents so that they will check on your daughter! The mother even doubts some of the workers if they actually administered the expensive meds to Tania because she thinks the woman pocketed half of it to get money for her own family. I have heard from several people that this truly happens. Poverty.
The family is worried right now because Tania hasn't eaten for a week after the last chemo treatment because of liver problems. she has sores all over her body and they say they are having trouble finding ways to feed her through her veins. I think it is necessary to send her to America for a thorough check and for further treatment before it is too late. I have heard many medical horror stories since I have moved here 4 years ago and my cousin died here 2 years ago from improper treatment of melanoma. The treatment plan may be from Germany but the follow through is from Ukraine where employees have very limited knowledge and would make more money cleaning someone's house than working in the hospital. (including the doctors).
This is the story, briefly. I am asking on their behalf........is there a sponsorship program or some kind of program that would pay for her medical bills in the USA?
Thank you for your time and I hope to hear from you soon.
Sincerely,
Ola Rondiak
03 October 2006
"Reko and Friends" Art Exhibit Opening

The IWCK Painting Group is having an opening of their Art Exhibition entitled "Reko and Friends". They will be displaying art by long-time Painting Group member Reko, who will soon be leaving Kiev, along with paintings by the rest of the group (including Ola).
Everyone is invited to come to the opening this Friday, October 6th from 6:30 to 8:30 at the Pavlo Tychyna Museum which is located at 5 Tereschenkivskaya (near the Shevchenko Park, across from Shalena Mama Restaurant).
The exhibiton will be open to the public from October 6th till October 13th. The Museum hours are 9am till 6pm.
26 September 2006
Ukrainian Adoptions
Roman has navigated the murky waters of this process himself, successfully, and is prepared to share his experience to assist other do the same.
23 September 2006
Czech Proverb
Perfectly true in my case! I eat too fast, too much, and at times not the right things. At work I work too fast, too much, and at times not on the right things. Those Czechs got it right with this one.
19 September 2006
Current Weather in Kyiv
Interview Tips for Job Applicants
While I'm on the subject. Here are some things that don't work to get your senior management position with our company:
- When asked where their CV is the applicant responds with "I heard that I am supposed to have my CV with me and I called your HR Director and asked her to print one out for you. Perhaps you can call her and see where it is."
- When asked if they have any questions about the company the applicant responds with "No, I know everything. Thank you."
- When asked if I might contact one of the applicant's bosses from a previous job: "No, I'd rather you didn't. I didn't meet his expectations and he fired me."
- Taking a mobile phone call in the middle of the interview.
- Taking another mobile phone call a few minutes later.
- Showing me a little folded vinyl "official document" and claiming that it's worth something and I should hire you.
- Stating that your wife's sister's husband's cousin works in the President's Administration and that we won't have any problems. No thanks.
Art World Immersion
On Saturday we had a look at the PinchukArtCenter on the top floors of the Arena City complex by Besserabka. Politics aside, it's a great space and the contemporary Ukrainian, Thai, American, and other art was excellent. The show, in the Arena courtyard was interrupted (...ended) by a full-blown fire. see pictures. It's amazing they got the fire under control with fire extinguishers. It looked almost too big to contain. Victor requested a free 100gm to the "khloptsi" that put the fire out. No lawyers or insurance types to be found.
On Sunday the L'art people opened Berezhynsky (sp?) Gallery (Rybalska 22 in Pechersk). It's a great space that's part of an old armory renovated in a modern, minimalistic way. On display where Chichkan's (again) monkey headed men and some interesting burned wood art from Kyril Protsenko. We took the kids to this daytime event and enjoyed the after-party on the terrace inside the armory courtyard. Romchyk patiently waited for more sushi to come out to the furshet table while Maya and Kalyna did improvised gymnastics/dancing on the stage. No fires.
25 August 2006
Reasons to Check My Life Insurance Policy

The recent Tupolev Tu-154 crash (169 dead) in Donetsk, and the recent increase in frequency of my one-day hops to Oblast centers around Ukraine has got me reviewing my life insurance policies. Above is a picture of part of the avionics equipment of an AN-28 (sticking out of the rear of the cockpit) during my flight to Odesa Tuesday. I've always felt flying in Ukraine is safer than driving. Is it?
Z Mynulym!
24 August 2006
Ukrainian Business Law Axiom 02
Ukrainian Business Law Axiom 01
21 August 2006
Holodomor Archives Open and Online
Ukraine`s national intelligence agency the SBU on Friday opened up formerly-secret state archives on brutal Soviet era-famines causing the deaths of millions, according to Deutsche Press Agence (DPA).
SBU historians after four years of reviewing old KGB records made public more than 3,000 pages of 130 official state documents.
It was the first time any former Soviet republic had released to the public archival information concerning the mass starvations, said Vasyl Danielenko, an SBU spokesman.
The entire formerly-classified archive of the former Soviet republic Ukraine was now available for viewing in paper or digital format, or at the Internet web site www.ssu.gov.ua, he said.
The Soviet government in its early years of existence presided over three deadly and wide-reaching famines - in 1921-22, 1932-33, and 1946-47.
Between six and ten million Ukrainians died of starvation in 1932-33, after Soviet leader Josef Stalin ordered the forced confiscation of food from the Ukrainian countryside.
The first page of the archive is here. The scans are .JPG and each one has a zoomed in version.
Uzbek & Armenian Food with a Playground
If you like spicy soup try the "Lahman" (33 uah). It is a hearty vegetable and beef soup with noodles accompanied by a small dish of pasty red stuff that is really spicy when mixed into the soup or spread on a piece of grilled veal. Spicy enough to make one's eyes water and makes the ice-cold Paulaner Hefe-Weiss (24 uah) taste all the better. Worth a try.
Sim-Sim Restaurant
Uzbek and Armenian Cuisine
Velyka Okruzhna (Ring Road)
Closest Metro: Sviatoshyn
Tel. 406-4625, 459-5951
18 August 2006
Sand Castles at Blue Lake
Justice in Small Town Ukraine
Biking In Kyiv
Recommendation: Bike Pro Sport
Talk to "Sasha" about their selection of Schwinn and Scott bikes.
Rode around in Holosivskyj Park and ended up at that cafe that looks like Captain Nemo's Nautilus by the willow trees. The service was excellent, there was a festive aura (the tables were packed) and the prices were very reasonable.
13 August 2006
Hamsters and Mouse Poison
In the last expat exodus, among the tearful goodbyes with our good friends of the last three years, came the seemingly unending pet offers. These offers, voiced out loud in-front of the all-absorbing ears of our children, caused a significant amount of conversation in the family to say the least. The usual techniques of badgering and begging were mercilessly employed by our children who outnumber us 3:2. In the end our crew now consists of two adults, one boy, two girls, two hamsters, and a turtle from Odesa.
On the third day of owning the hamsters we realized one had escaped through a missing crossbar in the top of the cage. We searched the first floor and found the little creature in the guest room sniffing around with his whiskers next to half-munched mouse poison. Oops, forgot about our little mouse problem last fall. Now what? She seemed active and alert but “Google” research recommended an immediate visit to a Vet. 21:30 on a Sunday night, Kyiv business directory in hand, I call the Vet and what’s this? “Sure come on in, we’ll be waiting for you” they say on the phone. Great service. I take the whole cage, strap it to the passenger seat and wonder, as I careen down Prospect Peremohy to the Vet, what would happen if the airbag went off? Now the Vet is on Saksanskoho, but the only problem is that Saksahanskoho is one big dug out pit from the train station intersection all the way to Horkoho St. So here I am, after 10pm, marching down Saksanskoho with our hamster cage in search of the Vet. The hamsters loved their little city stroll. I had never been to a Vet and didn’t know what to expect. The service was excellent. I don’t know if I agree with the treatment, which consisted of five injections, but I have no basis for knocking it either. The following day, Ola and kids took her in and she received five followup shots. It’s been a week now and the hamster is still running around and looking good. So if you ever have hamster trouble in Kyiv call: 289-7744 Fauna Servis
04 August 2006
VR Hall Interior Design
Our New Leader
03 August 2006
Yulia Scolded During Round Table
PORA Camp Update
A Clause from the "Universal"
The Morning After: No Activists in Sight
"I decided to nominate Victor Yanukovych to be the Prime Minister of Ukraine. I understand all the complexity of this decision, for both the East and West of Ukraine. I appeal to the nation to accept this with an understanding that we have a unique chance to unite people on both sides of Dnipro. Ukraine has a polarity which cannot be resolved with another election." Channel 5
I decide to leave a little earlier for the office and swing by Maydan etc. On my 20 minute ride to the center, radio ERA is not even covering Yushchenko’s announcement. They are actually playing a song: “…obla-di obla-da, life goes oooon…ohohoh life goes on…”. I flip through all the radio stations: nothing. Back to radio ERA where the newscaster is now going through the morning’s press headlines. Of course nothing. The printing presses were well into their run when Yushchenko made his announcement. Now a story about a German putting together a soccer team comprised of elephants. Still nothing about Yushchenko. Finally at the hour mark a brief casual announcement that Yushchenko will confirm Yanukovych and that Moroz, Regions, and Nasha Ukraina have signed the “Universal Agreement”.
Arriving at Maydan I see no one. Not a single activist. All tents quiet at 8am. Bankova: nothing. Cab Min: nothing. A few black Mercedes with VR plates escorted by cars with flashing blue sirens pass me on the streets but no activists. At the VR: nothing. No one out. Nothing on 5TV but a recurring story about some Japanese Xylophone musician. Finally a couple re-runs of the 2am address. Then Ukraine appears, at 09:30, on CNN immediately after the Isreal/Lebanon headlines, and before Mel Gibson’s drunk driving charges. Now it’s 12:44, it appears Nasha Ukraina, has yet to sign the agreement, and it has been announced that at 16:00 Yanukovych will be sworn in as Prime Minister of Ukraine. Ukraine is now the top story on Google News, above Israel. BBC has a nice chronological recap:
21 Nov 04 Yanukovych declared winner of presidential election - protests begin
03 Dec 04 Election annulled
11 Jan 05 Yushchenko declared winner of re-run election
08 Sep 05 Yushchenko sacks Tymoshenko government
26 Mar 06 Yanukovych party wins most votes in general election
03 Aug 06 After four-month deadlock, Yushchenko agrees Yanukovych can be PM
In the bottom, bottom line, instead of being placed in jail for crimes against the people of Ukraine. The same individuals are now given control of the government.
Nightmare
02 August 2006
Tension Mounts
Ukraine is waiting for President Yushchenko's address which will in any case be historic. No time has been announced and it's already 21:31. Rumor (unconfirmed) is that it will be just before midnight. At around 17:30 Yushchenko spoke to the T.V. cameras, in a voice strangely reminiscent of Marlon Brandon in Apocalypse Now, stating that the political forces did not reach an agreement and the "Uhoda" is not signed.
The Verkhovna Rada is in session and announced a "break" until the President's address which they agreed to watch in session. Apparently there is a fairly sizeable turnout on the streets. I'd like to see it for myself and may go there soon.
Finished Fort & 2x4's In Odesa
27 July 2006
A Fort for the Wolf to Blow Down
We arrive at EPICENTER. Each time I go into this store I am taken aback by it’s monstrous size: bigger than any Lowe’s or Home Depot I’ve seen in the U.S. More than 30 cashiers are hacking away at their registers. Sweating, socks and sandal clad shoppers dutifully wait in long lines with hardware piled high on their shopping carts waiting to pay 300 hryvnia for an imported German garden hose for example. I’m not an economist, but to me it’s some kind of an indicator of how disposal income is increasing, at least among Ukrainians in Kyiv. I didn’t run into a single foreigner in the place.
Again, the same lumber problem. The store seemingly has everything one could desire, in terms of hardware, but no 2x4’s. The kids grow impatient and start requesting a visit to the EPICENTER café, famous in our household. I actually like it. It’s large, modern and decorated in a trendy, New York style not to mention the great Ukrainian food served up cafeteria style.
Standing in this crowded mega-store, café pressure mounting from three hungry and thirsty mouths, I opt for these crazy 1.5 meter 1x5.5 pine boards that look like they are a composite of many smaller pieces (like scraps). Crazy to the tune of 35 hryvnia each (compared to a couple of dollars for a 2x4 in the U.S.). Expensive Kyiv.
So, in the end, we wind up building our fort with the 1x5.5’s and it seems to be going ok. Project completion is targeted for this weekend. Here is the construction team hard at work:


26 July 2006
Kivalov in the News
22 July 2006
Idiot Boy
10 July 2006
BBC: Ukraine a Banana Republic?
Banana republic is a pejorative term for a small, often Latin American or Caribbean country, which is politically unstable, dependent on limited agriculture, and ruled by a small, wealthy and corrupt clique. (from wikipedia)
Ok. Small? No. Politically unstable? Yes. Dependent on limited agriculture? No. Ruled by a small, wealthy and corrupt clique? um...wait that's a tough one...Yes?
I have been receiving emails from the U.S. asking if any of the local Kyivites care about the situation. From where I sit, if they do care, they sure are doing a good job of hiding it, because all appearances indicate that they could give 2 sh**s.
Tomorrow should be interesting as our soap opera continues to unfold. Tonight's cliffhangers: Will ByuT block the trybuna? Will the calls for a second maydan protest outside the VR be heeded (see maidan )? Will anyone listen to Yanukovych’s calls for a rally of his supporters at the VR?
Enough to keep me up at night? Not really. More like a story line of a third rate reality show.
Ukraine has more to offer than bananas and crooks.
Ukr-Folk Hip-Hop
I relished one of those "aha moments" of how good it is to live in Ukraine. Sitting outdoors, in the open air with a view of the Dnipro and Patona bridge. The rhythmic music mixing with our kids laughing as they run through the trees and bushes building "forts". Beer taps flowing alongside trays of fresh dyruny. Spontaneous encounters with random friends leading to animated conversations. More music --- and the bonus educational piece: our kids seeing how a bandura is carved out of a single block of wood, and how a vyshyvka is weaved on an ancient wooden foot-treadle loom.
We visited the festival twice on Saturday and returned on Sunday for the grand finale: Oleh Skrypka's performance, while the moon ascended above the evergreens, and the two giant straw men (seemingly in the middle of the crowd) were set ablaze.
A world away from the pathetic political drama just a few kilometers away. Highly recommended.
07 July 2006
Moroz
Yushchenko will not stop supporting Poroshenko. What's with that? My freind's astute observation: "I wonder what Yushchenko owes Poroshenko?"
10 June 2006
First American Meal
08 June 2006
Crimea Induced Blogger's Block

It's been a long time since I blogged. Suffering from blogger's block. It all started with the crazy Crimea road-trip more than a month ago. The trip was so incredibly rich in varied and surreal experiences that I generated reams of notes and thoughts but ironically no writing output. The thought of sitting at a PC and coming out with the words became somehow inconceivable, and worse with everyday. To do our Crimea trip justice I should write a complete narrative... yeah right.
When I think back I see a movie montage of endless driving across steppes and winding up and down mountains. Crossfade to checking in and out of different hotels. In and out six times in nine days. Exploring the deserted pre-season beachfronts with their boarded up cafes like the “La La Land” in Alushta. The meeting with Dimri the real estate guy in Yalta whose parents are 100% Tatar, who spent 12 years living in Donetsk and now taught himself to speak and read Ukrainian and insists on raising his children as Ukrainians. “Where can I get Ukrainian books?” he asks. Hey…yevshan.com of course. Next scene we’re walking into the fortress in Sudak only to stumble into a medieval reinactment where fully suited knights are hacking at themselves with real swords. Big ones. Then, still in Sudak, a glimpse of the hotel restaurant where the lounge singer (from Lviv no less) lets each of the kids sing a song on the microphone. The oseledets was good. Oh yeah…the waitress told us how her 17 year-old son just finished a paper on the Holodomor. How proud he is to be Ukrainian. Hmm.

More driving scenes with empty pringles containers, squashed grapes and sprite bottles dropping out of the car when the doors open for pee breaks. Family roadside peeing: morning, day, and night.
Then there’s Koktebel. A fascinating beach and our walk in search of Voloshin’s house. There it is --- oops, closed for remont. Then I realized the boardwalk (no wooden planks here, like in the USA, but a granite and marble promenade) was particularly well done. Wait…zoom into a plaque hanging on the side of a stone fence…donated by Poroshenko, Kinakh, Tyhypko…hmm.

The sun was hot and bright on arrival in Feodosia. We loved the aura here – the small hotel we found even had a great swimming pool. Maybe the closing scene would be the view I had in the square in Feodosia as nightfall arrived and the flashing neon-sign on the wall of the bar in front of me read: “Bar-Tyr”. Yes, “bar-shooting range”. Strangely inviting. Fade to black.












